Of all the spirits on the market, few have such a reputation as whisky and the pinnacle of the whisky world is the single malt.

By Don Kavanagh

A single malt – a malt whisky made by a single distillery – captures the essence of its environment as few other drinks can, with the exception of wine. Winemakers talk proudly about terroir, that indefinable influence of microclimate, soil type, vine position and clone selection on the finished product that makes each wine unique; and single malts can make the same boast.
The ingredients are simple: malted barley and water; but the results are so individual that the practised palate can distinguish between whiskies made in the same village.
This comes down to terroir. The 120-odd distilleries of Scotland produce a bewildering array of malts, but crucially no two taste the same.
Some of this is regional – the Lowlands tends to produce lighter, pre-dinner drams, while the Highlands have a smokier, stronger flavour, with distinct fruit note. Meanwhile, Speyside, the heart of the Highland region, produces rich, fiery whisky that tends to be full of fruit, spice and sherry notes. The islands have a more salty, briny influence, while the island of Islay produced huge, medicinal-tasting whiskies that reek of peat smoke and iodine.
The reason for the major differences is the water supply. On Islay, for example, water from a stream has a distinct iodine character, from percolating through earth with a high seaweed content. This is reflected in the whisky and Islay is the only place on earth where the water tastes like whisky.
The finer differences between similar whiskies will be a combination of barley type, the level of malt, the geology of the area and the copper stills themselves. Sizes vary, much like the distilleries themselves. For example, Edradour uses the smallest legally allowed stills in Scotland and their annual output is less than the amount Glenfiddich produces in a week.
While the range of styles of malt is a blessing, it can also be a curse. Finding the perfect dram can be an expensive exercise in trial-and-error, but worth persevering with.
Also a quick note on serving malts – if you must offer ice, at least offer it in a separate glass on the side, so the customer can add to his or her own taste. Few things in life are as frustrating as ordering a nice malt and finding it washed up, beaten and lifeless on the rocks. The same goes for water – whisky is expensive enough without having to watch it being drowned as well.
For this month’s tasting the Panel ensconced itself in the rather lovely surrounds of the Library at Ponsonby’s Prohibition restaurant and speakeasy. We’d like to thank the management and staff of the Prohibition who made our tasting such a memorable one.
On the Panel this month I was joined by usual suspects Bart Burgers and David Batten, along with Katey Rudlin. As ever, any comments about a Panellist’s own whisky were disregarded.

Click here to download as PDF the Panels tasting results.