By Cameron Douglas MS­­

The picturesque region of Wairarapa is a small, but significant contributor to the New Zealand story of wine. Although it accounts for only 3 per cent of the national average by vineyard area and a tiny 1 per cent of the national average by volume it has a rich history and is a fascinating place to visit. The very first pinot noir vintage for the region happened in 1897 - although Prohibition virtually halted wine production in 1905 even back then the locals has noticed that that the region had potential.

In 1980 the wine landscape changed with new pioneering vineyards established in Martinborough - pinot noir was set to become a legendary variety for the region and New Zealand - today pinot noir still has the lions’ share of grape plantings at around 47 per cent (followed closely by sauvignon blanc with 35 per cent). Other varieties of note are chardonnay, pinot gris and riesling.

Much of the wine tourism in the Wairarapa has centered round the township of Martinborough and a few minutes’ drive north are the two other wine areas of the Wairarapa - Gladstone and Masterton - which not only produce some great wine, but host a different wine event for the region. The Wairarapa Wine Harvest Festival focuses on the local wine and culinary offerings, and with only 2000 tickets available event the emphasis is on a relaxed and happy family fun day.

And of course, it’s all about the wine.

Gladstone Vineyards was established in 1986 and is one of the older producers in the area. Pinot noir, sauvignon blanc, a Bordeaux blend, methode traditionelle and viognier are the varieties that account for most of the production. The highlight for me at the tasting was a barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc called ‘Sophie’s Choice’. The wine has a lovely texture and intriguing flavours including white flowers, wet chalk minerality and a solid fruit core contributing to longer finish (4 stars).

Many readers will be familiar with Fairmont Estate Wines. The Block One Pinot Noir has historically been highly recognized and awarded. Tasting the wine at cellar door completed the picture and allowed me to get a sense of the vineyard aromas which clearly came through in the wine’s mineral undertones: Distinctly varietal with darker broodier cherry notes and layers of spice. With 45 per cent new French oak the wine more than managed the bright ripe fruit on the palate (4 stars).

The Urlar website suggests ‘The Earth’ as one translation of the Gaelic name - I think it best fits what Angus and Davina (cuisine queen and other half of the company) Thomson are achieving on their property. Fully organic as of March 2010 and dipping their toes into biodynamic practices, their property is a delight to visit with the wines are a true reflection of their efforts in this regard. Their sauvignon blanc and pinot noir are very good wines with a big future - careful attention to detail in the wine making showing site and individual expression (both 3.5 stars).

Karl Johner makes wine for several brands in the northern Wairarapa. Of the wines tasted on this sunny autumn day three really caught my attention: the Sauvignon Blanc ’09 ‘Sur Lie’ had a great texture and waxy autolysis notes, bright ripe fruit and finish - for me a five-star wine. The barrel sample of the ’09 Pinot Noir was also distinctive with spiced red tea and apple-skin flavours, great texture with well managed tannins - easily a four-star wine. Then the Noble Pinot Noir – copper gold in colour with raisin aromas. The flavours were bold and sweet (188gpl rs) great balance and no added acid. 

Little Vineyards is a co-operative type arrangement of several small vineyards providing the fruit for individual expressions under the one brand. Most of the wine is sold locally, but if you are interested in listing something quite rare give Nick Dench a call. There are several colourful titles in the range - Bijou, Lyndor, Ngaio and Maggies. I most enjoyed the Bijou Sauvignon Blanc ’09 – lemon, mandarin and citrus palate, zesty and floral (3 stars), Maggies Pinot Noir ’07 – earthy and savoury with silty minerals, good weight and texture (3.5 stars); the Bijou ’08 Pinot Gris had benefited well from a little bottle development with balance in both the fruit expression, integration of flavours, length and good phenolic balance (3 stars).

Joseph Ryan wines are a brand to watch – their newly released methode traditionelle was a lovely surprise. A 60/40 chardonnay-pinot noir assemblage had a near perfect autolysis invitation on the nose followed by crisp peach and strawberry flavours, bold yet fine bubbled mousse and lengthy finish (4 stars).

Loopline Vineyards has been on the wine scene in the Wairarapa since 1990. I was really pleased to taste these wines again, noting the overall quality has gone up. From the samples on offer at the festival the top wine for me was easily their ’08 Riesling in a medium-dry style – lovely mandarin and citrus aromas also on the palate with light tropical flavours, sweet fruit and a touch of funk. Drink now, it’s well worth the investment (4 stars).

The Hudson RPM ’07 Riesling (RPM - Rob, Paul, Marie) was another wine of note on show. Juicy sweet lemon and grapefruit flavours, generosity on the palate with an apple lift on the finish and great balance - an off-dry expression with 9.5 gpl rs (3.5 stars.Their sauvignon blanc ’09 4 stars and the pinot noir 3.5 stars.)

Peter Cottier established the Cottier brand in 2000 and today produces around 4500 to 5000 cases annually. Two thirds of his production is pinot noir, followed by sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. The Terra Nova pinot is well priced at under $20 and the sauvignon blanc a bargain at under $15. The top wine tasted was the ‘Emily’ Chardonnay with a peaches and creaminess and a light cashew note, vanilla brûlée and brioche - lengthy finish and well made (4 stars).

Waipipi wines were established in 1993 and have seven varietals in their range. They make the only 100 per cent chenin blanc methode traditionelle in New Zealand, which is a tasty, dry wine with a delightful mousse and flavour (4 stars).

Wycroft concentrate solely on pinot noir - sourcing fruit from a very tiny vineyard adjacent to the home of owner Lawrie Bryant and his lovely wife. These well-established vines are producing some delicious and very individual wines. Jane Cooper is the talent behind the scenes crafting cellar eligible and drink now wines. My favorite on festival day was the ‘Wycroft’ ’08 (4 stars).

Matahiwi wines, also crafted by Jane Cooper, are wines of real note. The sauvignon blanc especially is excellent – the ’09 showing flavours of ripe gooseberry, touch of Rose’s lime and kiwi fruit with whispers of barrel ferment and a leesy texture add layers of complexity (five stars no contest). The ‘Holly’ sauvignon blanc is arguably her best wine - also five stars. I tried a sample of the barrel-fermented chardonnay, which is worth a mention – nutty, crisp, cold stone peach and leesy undertones. The palate is dry and full with juicy-fruit gum flavours, great texture and a long finish. Alexia is Jane’s own brand – also delightful wines with eye-catching labels.

Paddy Borthwick is a true son of the Wairarapa and a key source of knowledge on the region, who happens to make some fine wine as well – and has been doing so for around 26 vintages – For me, pinot noir is his best. Borthwick Estate wines are distinctive and satisfying, with ageability if that’s what you want, but they’re also approachable at an early age and appeal to a variety of palates. The 2007 Pinot Noir is an impressive wine - perhaps the best to date (5 stars).

Next time you are either reviewing your Wairarapa selections or visiting the region don’t stop at Martinborough – The wines from Gladstone and Masterton each hold little secrets to be explored and add depth to your wine listings.