Napa Valley and the Viader Vineyard and Winery

By Cameron Douglas

The Napa Valley winegrowing region is one of the world’s most identifiable appellations. Located in the northern reaches of California and inland - east of the Sonoma Valley, ‘the Napa’ is well known for intense cabernet-based wines and ripe, juicy chardonnay. Two recent movies: ‘Sideways’ – sending up the culture of drinking California merlot in favour of pinot noir, and “Bottle Shock” - based on the so called ‘Judgment of Paris’ in 1976 when chardonnay and cabernet-based wines from Napa beat their historically renowned French counterparts in a blind tasting – increased the national and international profile of the Napa Valley and its wines and refocused attention on the region. Currently more than five million visitors annually are attracted to the area to taste and sample great wine and food.

In the August issue of Thirst I detailed how the cooler influences of the famous rolling fog on Sonoma’s viticulture promote the longer and cooler ripening season required for pinot noir more to the north; and the other warmer areas were great for zinfandel and cabernet. Napa does not have any fog or special weather influences - it is a warmer and drier climate overall.

Napa, like parts of Sonoma, can ripen cabernet sauvignon, merlot and other thicker-skinned red varietals extremely well. In areas where heat means ripening is not a problem, elevation and site aspect can provide the right counter measure.

During my recent time in California, I visited the Viader Vineyard and Winery – one of those that are positioned at an altitude of 200 meters and above to take advantage of the cooler aspects.

Delia Viader (pronounced ‘Vee-a-dare’) founded the brand in the mid 1980s and was one of only a hand full of women working as vignerons at that time. Today Viader is regularly ranked in the top 100 wines in Wine Spectator and of the 7000 cases available annually very little is exported – until now.

Some of the wines are now available from Wine Circle in Huapai (ask to speak with Chris). Viader wines do not come cheaply, but with the currently stronger NZ dollar they are a worthy investment for restaurateurs looking to add a layer of interest in their wine offerings.

Viader ‘Dare’ Tempranillo 2007: Lush and vibrant red fruits profile with cooler fresher fruit suggestions included, a sweet soil bouquet follows and then the aroma of oak (60-70 per cent of the juice is aged in one-to-two-year-old barrels). On the palate a dry wine with mealy tannins, a strong fleshy attack with wild red fruits then black, plenty of oak flavour and a moderate finish. A good food wine and a great alternative to any Rioja you may have already listed.

The Cabernet Franc 2009 is a distinctive and must try wine – ripe and lush with chocolate and leather aromatics, varietal black fruits and a plummy note. On the palate this wine delivers way more than the nose suggests with a strong fruit and oak harmony, bitter chocolate from the franc is very noticeable and along with a pink candy floss and stewed red apple skin flavour this wine is different. The tannins are big, chunky and flavourful and the oak brings length and more robust character.

The Viader ‘Black Label’ 2008 is a blend of 52 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 44 per cent syrah, 3 per cent malbec and 1 per cent cabernet franc. This pleasing blend has wild black fruits, leather, white and black pepper and earthy toasty suggestions. On the palate full-bodied with tantalising flavours that reflect the nose; medium-plus tannins both from the fruit and the oak add length and concentration. There is a liquorice and nutty extended finish that adds complexity and masculine charm to this wine.

The 2007 ‘V’ has 92 per cent petit verdot and just 8 per cent cabernet sauvignon. An unusual combination as petit verdot usually constitutes and minor portion in any blend. On the nose a wild and rich violet, cassis, marmite, meat, black berry fruits and a ton of oak – quite the monster it would seem. On the palate a big and powerful flavour with plenty of tannin, fruit power and apparent sweetness of oak. There is a peppery and powerful finish with medium-plus complexity and cocoa-powder flavour. This is a very good wine, but needs decanting for service or a long stay in a cellar – perhaps an investment wine.

The most complete and balanced wine in the line-up is their flagship wine the 2007 Viader. The traditional blend of cabernet sauvignon (71per cent) and cabernet franc works well with dense, rich and classic Napa characters of black fruits, dark cherry and over ripe black doris plum. A point of difference for this wine is the combination of leather, violets and clay soil flavours. The palate continues with black currant, blue berry and sweet oak tannins in combination. A long and flavourful finish completes this wine. What’s also great is that is both a drink now or cellar worthy wine.

Twenty per cent of the value of all California’s wine comes from the Napa Valley – from only 4 per cent of its volume. This is a heavily capitalised wine region and the more famous of its wines sell out every year. Many of the wines are available on wine lists across the USA and fetch ridiculously high prices when listed and at auction. Investing in or exploring some of what is available here in NZ today can add complexity and interest to your wine list.