When you’re washing dishes in your hometown Blenheim do you dare to dream that one day you’ll be Chef of the Nation? Or running the kitchens of New Zealand’s leading hotels, cheffing in Europe’s finest Michelin restaurants or in some of America’s most notable?
What Marlborough’s Marc Soper has achieved must be the cheffing equivalent to the Kiwi boyhood dream of becoming an All Black. Well more than, depending on your perspective.
And the achievements keep on coming with Soper, now chef de cuisine at Wellington’s Wellesley Boutique Hotel, adding Chef of the Capital 2011 to his impressive CV.
Modestly, he lists spending time with his family and eating a meal he hasn’t had to cook as his most satisfying experiences; and son Harrison ‘a chef in the making’ as his major achievement. We don’t think he is entirely joking.
For the record, because it’s an impressive one, it’s worth taking a look at where Soper has worked, and what he’s achieved.
He began cookery training his in home town Marlborough, then completed it in Wellington at Massey University, while working at the then James Cook Centra Hotel. His name first hit the headlines in 2005, when he won Chef of the Nation while working at Marlborough’s boutique Hotel d’Urville.
An impressive Auckland stint followed; Soper re-opened fine-dining Partington’s at the five star Langham Hotel then worked at Mollies Boutique Hotel. The highest level of competition also kept him busy during 2005 and 2006, as a member of the New Zealand Culinary Team.
International experience began with further training at the Culinary Institute of America, which presented opportunities to work at California’s French Laundry and Restaurant Gary Danko. Travels through Europe took him to significant Michelin restaurants, including Residenz Heinz Winkler in Germany and Restaurant Taggenberg in Switzerland.
He rates meeting some very talented chefs, cooks and people as among the highlights of his cheffing career.
Since returning to New Zealand he spent time in event and conference catering with Compass, in Taranaki, and is now in charge of the Wellesley kitchen, running Maginnity’s Restaurant and catering for the hotel’s conference business. Obviously, he’s kept his hand in the competition world, taking out the Bidvest Regional Team Challenge in 2009 and 2010, and of course this year’s Chef of the Capital.
Soper describes his style as modern European, and he’s a keen supporter of fresh, local produce and ‘knowing exactly where that product comes from’.
Remembering back to when he was starting out, Soper has some advice for budding young chefs (son Harrison included, we presume). “The hours are long and the work is demanding but it’s fun and an exciting job with loads of opportunities.”
“Being taught to understand the basics and then building on them and being told NO is not always a bad thing.”
“Look, listen, understand the basics and don’t talk back. The person teaching you is passing on valuable knowledge. Be grateful they want to share it with you. You will one day be in a similar situation if you stay committed.”
Soper is certainly grateful for the guidance of his first teacher and mentor, Warwick Fulsdeth.
“I grew up in Marlborough and started work experience at the Blenheim Country Lodge. I was lucky enough to be offered a part time job washing dishes which I did while completing my first year of cookery training, under Warwick, who is still a close friend and mentor. He has always been there to give advice and have a good laugh.”
The New Zealand Chefs Association has also been a great support network, with its huge base of members always willing to help, he adds.
Today, Soper believes finding experienced staff is one of the major challenges faced by a chef working in New Zealand (well, that and the current price of lamb).
“Overall I think as a small country New Zealand does very well (however) it would be nice to see a better retention of staff here. I guess you always have to go away to appreciate what we have.”
“It would be good to see a rating system here, similar to Australia with its Chefs Hats,” he adds. Australian Good Food and Travel Guides Chefs Hats have been awarded since 1982, selected through a combined system of anonymously dining inspectors and votes from the dining public.